Dhaulagiri Expedition

Trip Overview

Dhaulaghiri was climbed first in 1960 by an international team under the leadership of Max Eiselin, Lucerne. Since I happen to know some of the team members personally, my description concentrates mainly on this ascent. But in this Overview chapter, I try to inform about the present situation.

Dhavali giri is Sanskrit and means white mountain. It is located in the west central part of Nepal. On the altitude scale it is number 7 and it is almost the last 8000er to be conquered. The way of the first ascent is the normal route of today. There are however two main possibilities to reach the base camp. Both ways start from south at the small town of Beni (860 m) which can by reached by bus from Pokhara and Kathmandu.

The eastern valley is called Kali Gandaki and was chosen by the French expedition in 1950. Today there is even an airport at Jomosom (2700 m) in this valley. On the west side of this valley is Dhaulagiri, on the east side is Annapurna. The alternative route is the Mayanghdi valley, which was discovered by a Swiss expedition one year later. Today there are commercial trekking tours that climb on one side, reach the base camp and come back through the opposite valley. But there also organized tours that try to reach the summit. Here is a brief description of such a tour that lasts ca. 45 days and costs around $ 7000, including the flight to Nepal and the fee to the summit.

Reckon with a 10 days climb from Beni through Mayanghdi Khola to the BC on the north side at 4650 m. Food and lodging in tents are provided by the organizer. Porters are included in the price. The participants will spend 30 days at and above the base camp. Food will be supplied at the BC, but the ascent of the NE-spur is left to the team member, without guides and at their own risk. 2-men tents are provided, but must be carried and to four sites on the spur and are erected by the members. Some fixed ropes are already there or will be installed by the organization. Artificial oxygen is proved at the BC in case of emergency.

The route between the last camp and the summit does not follow the spur and the French ridge, as in 1960, but follows the ice field that heads directly to the summit and was abandoned by the first ascent because of too much snow.

The way back to Beni may lead over the French-Col and ambush Pass (Thapa Pass). Then follow the Kali Gandaki to the village of Tuktsche (2600 m). Some organizations walk back to Beni, others reach the airport at Jomosom (2700 m).

Detail Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 02-03: Preparing Expedition & Briefing
Day 04: Drive by Bus to Beni (830 m) & Galeshor Camp
Day 05: Galeshor – Tato Pani (1180 m)
Day 06: Tatopani – Ghasa (2000 m)
Day 08: Larjung – Marpha (2665 m)
Day 09: Marpha – Yak Kharka (4000 m)
Day 10: Yak Kharka- Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4740 m)
Day 11 -37: Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri 8167m.
Day 38: Prepared for coming back
Day 39: Dhaulagiri Base camp – Yak Kharka
Day 40: Yak Kharka – Jomsom (2800 m)
Day 41: Jomsom – Pokhara
Day 42: Pokhara – Kathmandu
Day 43-44: Kathmandu
Day 45: Final Departure.

Itinerary B:
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 02-03: Preparing Expedition & Briefing
Day 03: Drive by Bus to Beni, Camp
Day 04: Beni – Babichaur – Camp
Day 05: Babichaur – Darbang – Camp (1180 m)
Day 06: Darbang – Dharapani – Camp
Day 07: Dharapani – Muri – Camp
Day 08: Muri – Bagar – Camp
Day 09: Bagar – Dovan – Camp (2520 m)
Day 10: Dovan -Italian Base Camp – Camp (3500 m)
Day 11: Italian BC – Dhaulagiri Base camp – Camp (4740 m)
Day 12 -37: Climbing period Dhaulagiri 8167m. 
Day 38: Prepare for coming back
Day 39: Dhaulagiri Base camp – Yak Kharka (4000 m)
Day 40: Yak Kharka – Jomsom (2700 m)
Day 41: Jomsom – Pokhara
Day 42: Pokhara – Kathmandu
Day 43-44: Leisure time in Kathmandu
Day 45: Final Departure

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Trip Facts

  • Trip Duration:45 Days
  • Trip Grading: Strenuous
  • Max Altitude: 8,167m
  • Group Size: 2-10pax

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